Monday, October 23, 2006

With Cubby in Ireland: October 3-8, 2006

*Experiencing technical difficulties which won't allow us to post photos here. Will try again.

The three of us caught the early morning ferry across to Belfast and headed for the wilds of the west coast. Maps of Ireland are especially deceptive, and what does not seem like a great distance at all, soon translates into long hours of driving, due to the curving and uneven roads. So, the first day was mostly spent in transit. Eventually however, we arrived at our very old farmhouse hostel in the village of Doolin in the Burren. Cubby, who had only just become an official senior citizen that week, spent his first night in a youth hostel. We all loved the spot though, and there were three pubs down the road which were famous for their traditional Irish music.

The next day we resolved to not spend too long in the car, and drove slowly around the very rocky coastal area known as the Burren. We explored the rocky coastline, some old standing stones and tombs, celtic crosses and churches and were met with many a sudden downpour and rainbow. We then walked out to the Cliffs of Mohair, and ended up a bit further South in County Clare at a Thalassotherapy (spa treatments using seawater and/or seaweed) center in Kilkee. We had seaweed baths which warmed and rejuvenated us and went out for a very nice dinner. We stayed at the bath place and set out again for another long day of driving.

We took a short ferry ride into Kerry and drove down to Kilarney, via a stop at a St. Mary’s church to enquire about Culbertson family history. The day was unplanned and long and we had one of those strangle-each-other roadtrip moments around Kilarney. But after more hours in the car and miles and miles of rainy but gorgeous scenery, we managed to regain peace and serenity just as we arrived at the next night’s accommodation, Dzogchen Beara Tibetan Buddhist Retreat.

The Buddhist retreat was magnificently set on a remote part of the Beara Penninsula in South Western Ireland, perched atop cliffs which dropped straight into the atlantic. Our room and the people were there were fantastic and warm. It was a comfortable place to be and we all wanted to spend at least another day. There was no room nor much time however, so we all joined the morning meditation and reluctantly set out the next day for the big smoke of Dublin.

We came into Dublin at dusk and met Sam and Julia for dinner in Sandy Mount Village. Zoe met Sam 8 years ago on a long, roundabout flight to Melbourne during a layover at Dubai airport. They enjoyed many an adventure all together in Melbourne, Tasmania and Japan but hadn’t caught up for a solid seven years. We also got to know Sam’s sterling partner, Julia and Cubby and Sam bonded and spoke Blues-speak to one another. We toured some of Dublin, visiting the book of Kells, walking through Trinity College and Temple Bar and enjoying a vibrant city.

Cubby departed from Dublin airport, leaving behind whole countries of rainbows, sudden showers, a thousand glinting rocks and crags, long stretches of deep green and a youngest daughter with her leperachaun fiancé. There was dinosaur-sized effort and good intentions and a splattering of courage and faith involved in making this trip for my dad so I hope it was more than worth it and all the goodness of travel and connecting or reconnecting with loved ones has spilled over into life in Pennsylvania, lightening his step, quickening his heart, calming his breath. Thanks for all of the effort dad and for your presence.

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