Onsen Madness, Takaragawa and Kusatsu: Jan. 14-17, 2007

Everyone always asks us what we miss most about Japan when we leave it. Years of coming and going and consequently practising the answer to this question have enabled us to hone it down to three simple things.
1. Food
2. People
3. Onsen (hot springs) and Japanese Baths
(not necessarily in that order)

It was a pleasure to eat our favorite cuisine on the planet again. To taste the yuzu, myoga, real sashimi and heavenly tofu. It was also fantastic to see so many of our dear friends again. It was even better when we got to tantalize our palattes in the company of great friends at the magical land of onsen in winter!



The five of us: Jamie, Macchan, Hisane and C & Z, trekked about 2 1/2 hours North-West of Tokyo to Takaragawa Onsen, which does, as the name entails, contain a river of treasures. Once you arrive at Takaragawa, you drink some special "welcome tea" of plum and chilli pepper, then you choose your apparel for the whole stay from a range of yukata. All there remains to do is to linger in the baths, eat lavishly, relax deeply, maybe nap or read and enjoy the company of those around you. I think we did a pretty good job too. Especially considering how Zoe fell sick the day before we left, and with a high fever the morning we set out, was forced to resort to crazy Japanese medicines and use a suppository to bring the fever down. This trip had been too long in the planning and was too treasured to be passed up.

Snow was piled up high at Takaragawa, and it poured out of the sky the next morning, transforming the already magical landscape to one even more wonderful.



Thanks Hisane, Macchan and Jamie for joining us for one of our most precious experiences!

After Takaragawa, we caught the train over to Kusatsu to meet Justin and spend two nights at the apartment which our host-family, the Takahashis, own as a time-share. When at Takaragawa, each minute feels valuable, somewhere behind you the clock is ticking down, and you never want to leave. Arriving at Kusatsu, I could really settle in to a deeper relaxation and stillness.

Kusatsu town is overflowing with magical water. There are about 12 free municipal hot springs
peppered throughout the town, several more famous or fancy ones that charge a bit, and even a 24 hr. free one in the lobby of our apartment building. So, we wandered through another snowscape, checking out town and sauntering from bath to bath.



At home, we chatted and laughed with Justin (who is hilarious, thanks Justin!), played cards, read and really took some time out. It was one of Justin's first onsen experiences so it was kind of a privelage to introduce him to a whole world to immerse yourself in while in Japan and pine for once you have left the country.